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Art & Culture
Though the Thai
independent history in Southeast Asia stretches back roughly only 1000 years,
Thailand is exceptionally rich in many aspects of culture. Originally influenced
by India, Sri Lanka and China, Siamese culture has evolved into something
unique.
A predominant position is occupied by architecture and sculptural art.
As was pointed
out by the renowned Thai-Italian art professor Silpa Bhirasri in his essay on
Thai Buddhist Art (published 1959 by the Thai Fine Arts Department), Indian
colonies existed in Thailand from the beginning of the Buddhist era. For
centuries these colonies influenced the less cultured peoples of Indochina, a
process which went on for more than 1500 years. Afterwards, in the 13th century
A.D. the Indian cultural expansion in Southeast Asia was checked by the Muslim
invasion into India while Chinese power started to have an important ascendancy
over the people of Indochina.
The Chinese
influence found cultures already firmly established, some of them even having
already ended their historical cycle. Thailand retained Indian culture, but
because it emerged as an independent nation in the 13th century A.D. just when
the Chinese political power started to play an important role, many features of
Chinese art were adopted by Thai art, as for example in architecture, lacquer
works, inlaid mother-of-pearl, porcelain, and to some extent mural paintings.
According to
Professor Silpa Bhirasri (1892-1962), from the Indian culture sprang up those of
Dvaravati (Mon people), Srivisaya (Indonesian), the Khmer empires and Burma.
Historically, the cultures of these people, except the one of the Burmese, ran
between the 5th and the 14th century A.D. Their religion was Hinayana or
Mahayana Buddhism. Only the Khmer followed alternatively either Hinduism or
Mahayana Buddhism.
Coming in
contact with high civilisations, the animistic Thai adopted partially, if not
totally, Buddhism. Thai art developed in fusion with that of the Mon, the Khmer
and the Indonesians of the Srivisaya period. Burmese influence over the
independent northern Thai states was extensive after the military conquests of
King Anuruth and his pious and zealous spreading of Buddhism in the 11th century
A.D. When the cultural and political cycles of the Dvaravati, Srivisaya and
Khmer empires reached their stages of decline, the Thai became the direct
inheritors.
From the 6th to
the 10th century A.D. Mon Dvaravati art saw its apogee. Influenced by Gupta
examples, it developed many local schools spreading over central and north-east
Thailand. From the 10th to the 13th century it had its non-creative phase.
Nakhon Pathom was the capital of the Mon empire, while Lavo (Lopburi),
Suwannaphum (U Thong), and Lamphun were the principal towns.
From Chaiya, an
important port of south Thailand at that time, Srivisaya culture spread to the
north of Indochina. In Lamphun the overlapping of the Dvaravati, Srivisaya and
Khmer arts is most noticeable. With reference to Srivisaya characteristics found
in Lamphun and other northern towns, there are two theories: one is that the
Srivisaya style was introduced in the north of Thailand by King Ramkhamhaeng of
Sukhothai in the 13th century A.D. after his conquest of the Malayan peninsula;
the second theory is that Srivisaya art reached north Thailand in a much earlier
period.
Considering the
monuments with Srivisaya characteristics in northern localities and considering
the fact that King Ramkhamhaeng had no political influence over those northern
towns, one could possibly accept the two theories corresponding to two distinct
waves of Srivisaya influence: the first since about the 9th or 10th century and
the second in the 13th century.
Khmer art,
which alternatively represented either Mahayana Buddhism or Hinduism, is found
all over central and north-east Thailand. It dates back to a period of about 200
years, the 12th and the 13th century A.D. Khmer art had a great influence over
Thai art, so much that when the Thai nation rose over the declining Khmer power,
it inherited directly much of the Khmer culture.
Professor Silpa
Bhirasri pointed out that considering the geographical position of Burma in
respect to northern Thailand; one may understand how much the northern Thai art
was influenced by that of Burma. Northern Thai statuary followed Buddha images
of the Indian Pala art of the 8th to 12th century A.D. that reached Indochina
via Burma.
The Tourism
Authority of Thailand, in its brochure on special interest tourism, cited an
unchallenged opinion, saying that for much of the country’s history the artistic
impulse was largely religious, and the greatest achievements can be seen in the
kingdom’s countless Buddhist monasteries and their adornments. The ancient
capital of Sukhothai saw the emergence of the earliest styles that can be called
distinctively Thai - for example the graceful lotus bud finial, a relatively
small ornamental terminal feature at the top of gables, pinnacles and the like,
which can still be seen on the ruins of many temples in the city.
Ayutthaya,
which ruled for 400 years, was characterised by more elaborately decorated
temples, and these were built well into the Rattanakosin, or Bangkok period, as
can be seen in the dazzling structures of the Grand Palace and the Temple of the
Emerald Buddha.
The classic
decorations include magnificently carved wooden panels, used for gables, doors
and windows; often they are inlaid with splendid mother-of-pearl decorations as
well as glass mosaic; stucco is regularly embedded with multi-colored pieces of
porcelain. On many temples, the interior walls are covered with intricate,
densely populated mural paintings, which depict the life of the Buddha or
moralistic fables used in teaching Buddhist precepts.
In religious
sculpture, too, Thai art has reached impressive peaks. The Sukhothai Buddha
image with its combination of power and flowing grace is admired by scholars
everywhere, while the bronze and stone creations of Ayutthaya, often of huge
size, command artistic respect as well.
In addition to
these monuments to faith, the Thai creative genius can be seen in other forms.
Thai artisans in the Sukhothai period produced superbly glazed pottery, widely
exported at the time and much prized by collectors today. Moreover countless
items used in daily life - from water jars and baskets to spinning wheels and
textiles - are distinguished by a beauty of design that lifts them into the
category of true art, well worth contemporary appreciation.
Archaeological Sites
Thailand’s
eventful past is reflected in a variety of historic sites located in almost
every part of the country - more than enough to fill several itineraries for
visitors with a special interest in archaeology. Near most of the archaeological
sites are museums where artefacts discovered in the area are exhibited.
The oldest
remains of a human settlement were found at Ban Chiang in the north-eastern
province of Udon Thani. Here, more than 3,000 years B. C., a mysterious culture
rose, flourished, and vanished in the early centuries of the present Christian
era. Excavations by the Fine Arts Department have found evidence of agriculture
going back to 4,000 B.C., as well as magnificently painted pottery and what many
experts believe may be the world’s earliest bronze. One of the Ban Chiang
excavations has been left open for visitors, showing the levels at which the
various objects were found.
The Northeast
also has several Khmer ruins of major archaeological interest, perhaps the best
known being Prasat Phanom Rung at Buriram and Prasat Hin Phimai near Nakhon
Ratchasima (Khorat), both of which were outposts of the Angkorian Empire in the
11th and 12th centuries.
Well worth an
extended visit is Sukhothai, the first truly independent Thai capital founded in
the early 13th century in the northern part of the country. Both, the old
Sukhothai and the Satellite City of Si Satchanalai, 38 kilometers (24mi) away,
are historical parks and are filled with impressive ruins of temples that reveal
the early flourishing of distinctive Thai styles of art and architecture.
In the central
region on the Chao Phaya River, the old city of Ayutthaya, which ruled the
kingdom for more than 400 years, is another historical park, within easy travel
from Bangkok by road or river. Here, too, ruins of magnificent old temples and
palaces cover a large area, requiring several days for a really thorough
exploration.
Not far away is
Lopburi, formerly a Khmer city but later a summer capital for Ayutthaya kings,
where some of the ruins show early European influence.
Northern
Thailand was long ruled by a series of semi-independent principalities and
contains several interesting historical sites dating back to that time,
particularly in Chiang Saen on the Mekong River, where a number of structures
predate those of Sukhothai; around Lampang one can visit many ancient temples in
various styles; at Nan some of the religious edifices go back to the 15th
century.
To the south of
Bangkok, about two hours by car, lies the old town of Petchburi with both Thai
and Khmer ruins as well as several spectacular caves used for worship; of
special interest is Wat Yai Suwannaram containing some of the oldest Thai mural
paintings that survived, and Wat Kamphaeng Lang, a well-preserved Khmer temple.
For a full list
of Thailand’s many archaeological sites, one may contact the National Museum in
Bangkok on Na Phra That Rd, Tel 224-1333, 224-1396
Museums in Bangkok
Listed here are
museums in the more narrow sense of the word. The reader should consider that
Thai art is not mainly housed in museums but in Wats and Royal palaces, which
are not just depositories of art but contain works of art, that has a religious
and social function until today.
National Museum
The museum
within walking distance of the Grand Palace, across Sanam Luang, is one of the
largest and most comprehensive museums in Southeast Asia. It houses over one
thousand artefacts ranging from Neolithic times to the present Bangkok period,
including furniture, weapons and porcelains. The complex was opened in 1924 in
buildings dating back to 1782 and consists of several old but beautiful
structures of colourful Thai architectural design. Originally the compound was
the palace of the Thai deputy king. The museum is open everyday, except Mondays,
Tuesdays and national holidays, from 9:00 to 16:00. Admission fee is 20 Baht.
Guided tours are provided in the mornings.
Wiman Mek Palace
(Teak Palace)
The palace
located behind Bangkok’s National Assembly was the home of King Chulalongkorn.
Attractions, aside from the palace itself, are collections of porcelain and gift
items received by the King, antique furniture and last not least photos of the
Royal family (Chulalongkorn had 77 children by 36 wives). The palace is open
daily from 9:30 to 16:00; admission fee is 50 Baht. (For additional information
please see the chapter Sightseeing in the Bangkok section.)
Jim Thompson s
House
Soi Kasemsan 2,
Rama I Road near the National Stadium
Actually, it’s
six houses re-assembled by the American who promoted Thai silk throughout the
world. The houses do not only contain a variety of valuable objects of art but
are an attraction in themselves. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-16:30; admission fee is 100
Baht. (For details, also on Jim Thompson, please see the Sightseeing chapter in
the Bangkok section.)
Suan Pakkard
Palace (Lacquer Pal.)
353 Sri
Ayutthaya Road, near the intersection with Phaya Thai Road
Another complex
of re-assembled old Thai houses in a beautiful garden. Actually, the place is
the residence of Princess Chumbot Nagara Svarga, a famous Thai art collector.
Aside from gold leaf inlaid lacquer work, artefacts from the excavation sites of
Ban Chiang as well as ceramics and porcelains can be seen. Open Mon-Sat
9:00-16:00; admission fee is 50 Baht. (For more details see Sightseeing in the
Bangkok section.)
Kamthieng House
Siam Society
grounds 131 Soi 21 (Asoke), Sukhumvit Road
An ethnological
museum in a Thai house from Chiang Mai which is more than 200 years old. Most
objects on exhibition relate to the northern hill tribes; among them are
costumes and farming artefacts. Open Tue-Sat 9:00-12:00 and 13:00-17:00;
admission fee is 20 Baht.
Prasart Museum
9 Soi Krungthep
Kritha 4A Krungthep Kritha Road, Bangkapi
Tel 374-6384
This is the
private museum of Mr Prasart, a life-long art collector. It’s located in a nice
garden with a small Buddhist temple. Among the exhibits are many pieces of
Bencharong porcelain.
Silpakorn
University [899]
Naprathat Road,
near the Grand Palace
Tel 224-4702;
being a university of fine arts, it has a small archaeological museum where
exhibitions are also held for more recent objects of art.
Royal Thai Air
Force Museum
Phahonyothin Rd,
Tel 534-1575 near Don Muang Airport
Exhibition of
old military aircraft, among them Nieuports, Breguets, a Spitfire and Boeing
P12-E’s, as well as a Japanese Tachikawa trainer. Open Mon-Fri and on the first
Saturday and Sunday of each month, 8:30-16:30. No admission charge.
Museum of
Science and Planetarium
928 Sukhumvit
Rd, near Ekamai Bus Station
In principle not
different from planetariums anywhere in the world, but conveniently located for
foreign residents in the Sukhumvit area who want to take children there. Open
Wed-Sun 9:00-16:00, closed on holidays.
Thai Human
Imagery Museum
Located at Km
marker 31 of the Pinklao - Nakhon Chaisi Road the museum houses life-like
sculptures created by a group of Thai artists. The figures are displayed in four
sections: "The Great Buddhist Monks", "Former Kings of the Chakri Dynasty", "One
Side of Thai Life" and "Playing Chess". The museum is open from 9:00 to 17:30 on
weekdays and 8:30 to 18:00 on Saturdays, Sundays and official holidays.
Admission fee is 140 Baht (Tel 01 / 211-6261)
Siriraj Hospital
For those who
find the displays at the Thai Human Imagery Museum not genuine enough, the
Siriraj Hospital near Phra Pinklao Bridge in Thonburi has a number of museums,
which make rather macabre attractions. Nevertheless, it’s a respectable
institution as it was Thailand’s first modern hospital when it opened in 1888.
The hospital’s Museum of the Dep. of Forensic Medicine houses, for example, the
body of a Chinese mass murderer. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00. Congdon’s Anatomical
Museum, also under the administration of the Siriraj Hospital, shows a
collection of dissected human organs. |
